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Hair Color chart , Natural level, Undertone, and neutralizer shade

The Hair Color You start with 100 % determines the tools and difficulty required to achieve each unique look. The same look can take two different people through vastly different salon experiences.  


Think like a Colorist with this color Level & Tone Chart

The Blondes Honest Truth 

This blog shows the step by step process of lightening to Blonde

Hair colors are comprised of different levels and

tones, which create the shades. The level of a color

indicates how dark or light the color is, while the

tone refers to the reflective tint of the color.

1.How does grey coverage work?

In color the only formulas that can completely cover grey must contain at least 50% Neutral or Brown. So putting a pure red or copper on white or grey hair will not totally cover or conceal. We must add neutral or brown to get the white hair totally concealed so 50% N + 50% Copper = White hair covered to look like true red hair.

2.How long should I wait to shampoo my hair after coloring?

After you color your hair, it’s best to wait a few days before you shampoo it, unless the directions state otherwise. This will help set the color, and prevent premature fading. 

3.Can I use hair color if I’m pregnant?

Hair colorants are some of the most thoroughly studied consumer products on the market. During pregnancy the body enters a phase of change and some people find themselves more sensitive to certain ingredients, therefore it is important to follow the instructions of your physician when deciding.

4. I want a vivid color , do I have to bleach my hair? Typically yes unless you are lucky enough to have very light colored hair already.

5. How can I maintain my vivid colors at home?

For a very permanent but difficult to change option try Overtone products

they are exceptional at color deposit . Because they are more difficult to remove however I do not recommend Overtone if you change colors very often. Discontinue use 2 months prior to changing colors.

For a less permanent at home color deposit option I have several products for every Hue in my                         Favorite Products Store

6. Will permanent color lighten previous color? NEVER, Only Bleach can lighten previous color applications.

7. I want a perm or relaxer (Sophie Robbie does not offer these services), what color services can I receive? You can still have color services but lightening hair is no longer advised due to chemical over processing of hair's disulfide bonds.

8. How long should I wait to color my relaxed hair?

Unless otherwise specified in the instruction leaflet. It is recommended to wait 15 days between the two procedures. Be aware that a straightener or relaxer will fade the color; therefore, it is best to do these prior to the hair color application. It is also recommended to perform a strand test prior to coloring. Freshly straightened or relaxed hair may absorb more color, causing darker results.

9. How long should I wait to color my permed hair?

For best results, wait 2 weeks after perming your hair before applying color

Picture of a person with brown pig tails , large brown glasses and a blue top

10. Is color best applied on clean or dirty hair?

A one day dirty scalp will protect you from the tingle of color chemicals. But Hair must be cleansed with a clarifying shampoo to help remove mineral and environmental deposits prior to any color service.​

I recommend  L'Oreal Metal Detox Shampoo

(Link on Image)

11. If I am coming in for hairstyling , should I wash my hair first? NO NO NO! Please arrive with 1-2 days dirty hair for any styling appointment.

12. Why does hair color cost what it does?

-Sophie Robbie is an independent business owner who pays Market Rental prices for her San Francisco Mission District salon space

Loreal metal detox shampoo link
Person stands at a reception desk wearing a peach stripped shirt

Sophie Robbie's unique experience & Training
credentials and continuing education earned
your amount (density)of hair
your hair history
your starting color
your desired color
the steps taken to achieve your result
the time taken on the schedule

increasing costs of supplies like aluminum and bleach

Salon Price averages of the city you live in

Extreme Mastery of a specific type of service 

How many clients also want to see this stylist

13. How often should I cut my hair? Every

4-8 Weeks

14. Will anything help my hair grow faster? 

I have seen Biotin in vitamin form help speed growth.

Curly brown haired person against a blue wall much should I be washing my hair?

3 times a week ideally with a Co-Wash for 2 

16.How can I tell if I’m experiencing hair loss?

Normal hair shedding is 50-150 hairs a day so more than that is unusual.

Hair loss can be a result of a wide variety of Diet and Medical Changes so I always suggest seeing your MD if the problem persists and is not environmental.

Hair loss can be experienced due to over processing of chemicals  , excess tension, or harsh environments (Burning Man) .

Hair Books I love:

(click on titles to buy)

Hair Story Untangling the roots of African American hair     

 -Byrd & Tharps


Art Deco Hair 

-Daniela Turudich


Fashions in Hair

-Richard Corson


On her own ground The life and Times of Madame CJ Walker

- A’Lelia Bundles

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